Saint Barrahane’s Well, Castlehaven, County Cork.

The stained glass window of the saint in Castletownsend

The coastline of West Cork is rugged and picturesque, with beautiful scenery and the Atlantic’s roar, but nestled in Castlehaven is a secluded little bay. It takes its name from the haven provided by the bay and the castle originally built by the O’Driscoll family, but now in ruins. Its original name was an Irish name for Glenbarrahane that derived from the deep rocky glen that in times past was dedicated to Saint Barrahane (or Bearchán). The scenery in this area is impressive, with three distinctive rocks known as ‘the stags’ and a cluster of small islands. The sea around this coastline can be quite treacherous at times, but this peaceful and very sheltered bay is the perfect spot for boats and the depth of bay has been exploited in the past.

Castlehaven bay

Part of the Battle of Kinsale, which was to finally cement English rule in Ireland under Elizabeth I was fought here in 1601. The Battle of Kinsale essentially started as far back as the twelfth century, when England began a programme of attempted consolidation of the power of the monarchy. English monarchical rule relied upon the eldest child receiving all the power, wealth and title inheritance with all its benefits, but many were aware of the Irish system of chieftains where power and title were only granted through a complex series of elections involving all parts of a relevant community. Kings were also elected in the same way in Ireland (at least in theory!) and there were and could be multiple kings, even for the same area. The idea of an English monarch being a single monarch for a large area and to be granted a right by inheritance was an anathema to many Irish people, and as soon as England began it’s campaign of consolidating power to a single monarch for Ireland, the chieftains kicked back and were able to claim that they were defending their ancient rights and customs. As time trundled on, the rhetoric quickly turned to war.

The ruins of Glenbarrahane church

By the time Henry VIII was on the throne in England the whole of Europe was rife with religious and political tension and paranoia.  It was during this time that Henry was most keen to consolidate the power of the English monarchy in Ireland and he knew that the only way to break the power of the chieftains was to remove them - permanently; an idea that he carried out with exacting ruthlessness. Henry’s actions were to cause much disquiet in Ireland and by the time Elizabeth I came to the throne there were fears of uprising, but Elizabeth favoured a different route and sought to belittle and dilute the chieftains power through the plantations. But Ireland was not to remain as quiet as she had hoped. In 1590 the English experienced the most significant resistance to date from forces in Ulster under the direction of Hugh O’Neill (Aodh Mór Ó Néill). At this time the English hoped to establish a series of strongholds to strangle and thwart the Gaelic rule of the chieftains, but the Irish used ambush tactics to destroy supply lines to the garrisons, sometimes resulting in major casualties. In the end the English had to sign a humiliating truce in 1599 under the command of the Earl of Essex, but the tide was to turn on O’Neill. The Irish were very effective in their ambushes and their knowledge of the lay of the land, but in the open battle field they would be utterly humiliated and defeated. The Ulster rebellion came to a crushing defeat.

Crossing the stream to the well

By 1601 the Irish were desperate. Fears of a French or Spanish invasion of England using Ireland as a stepping stone began to surface, but the paranoia of the English on this matter was to turn into a horrifying reality.  The Gaelic Earls shook the hand of the devil, and in exchange for gold accepted the military support of the Spanish and their King, Philip III. The Spanish had little interest in Ireland, other than making use of it as a distraction for English forces while it waged its war with the Dutch elsewhere for shipping rights, spices and the delights of the East that promised glory and wealth. With England tied up in a war in Ireland it could sink it’s ships in the East without fear of repercussion and throw all its might at the Dutch. The war of distraction for the Spanish centred on the town of Kinsale. The Spanish general, Aguila, was quick to surrender to the English as he began to realise the power of the Irish chieftains was already decimated before they had even arrived to give aid. The battles and clashes were bloody and costly, and finally resulted in the ‘Flight of the Earls’ -  the end of Gaelic rule in Ireland.

 On the path to the well

Castlehaven was the site of a significant battle in this whole affair. O’Driscoll, who was Lord of the Fort at Castlehaven, was lavished with gold from the Spanish and he was quick to announce across the area that he was in full support of the Spanish forces. Baltimore, Innisherkin and Dunboy quickly followed his lead. The Spanish exploited the deep waters of the bay in Castlehaven and arranged their fleet in its shelter. The English Admiral Leveson arrived with his fleet of ships, but the wind was blowing them away from the coast. Despite the weather acting against them, they managed to sink every last Spanish ship in the bay, but arrangements had been made for a battery on the shore and Leveson's ships were seriously damaged and sent limping back to Kinsale. Due to the sinking of the Spanish ships in the bay there was no one left to return to Kinsale to join the battle there. The plan had been disastrous and in 1602 all surrendered. For Spain it was costly, but nevertheless something of a success as a war of distraction. For Ireland it was a terrible tragedy that cost many lives and by consequence hammered the nail in the coffin of the system of chieftains. On Castlehaven beach, Hugh O’Donnell joined the rest of the earls of Ireland, and fled in fear to Spain.

Saint Barrahane's Holy Well

Today the bay has little sign of such a turbulent past. The ruins of the castle are almost hidden by ivy and a small ruin of an old Church of Ireland parish called Glenbarrahane parish sits amidst ancient tombstones, slowly decaying.  From the beach up to the church ruin is a concrete path and road with a low wall, but turning into the church grounds you should be able to make out a small path through the grass towards the back of the church where there is a gate. This gate leads across a small stream and the path heads up a densely wooded and very damp glen. Across a small wooden bridge and on the other side of the glen lies the well, noticeable by the objects left at it. The well itself is very small and at quite a high elevation from the surrounding waters, shrouded in shrubs and trees. There has never been a pattern observed at this well, probably because the date of the feast day of Saint Barrahane has been long forgotten, but fishermen frequent this well to pray for safety at sea, and a tradition of using water from this well in Castletownsend parish for baptism is maintained to this day. The Church of Ireland parish, dedicated to Saint Barrahane, also boasts a fine stained glass window of the saint by Harry Clarke.

The bay

Virtually nothing is known about Saint Barrahane. There are two Saint Barrahane’s from Offaly and another from Roscommon, but the Barrahane of Castlehaven is quite different. We do not know when he was born or when he died, but we can conclude that he was of the relatively early period of Christianity in Ireland. Local records try to make a claim of a fine genealogical background, but in many other records he is simply recorded as the son of Fiachre. He does not appear to have moved from the area during his life and appears to have had no significant missionary activity, so perhaps can be assumed to have been a hermit. Whatever the truth may be, this mysterious saint found a spot of solace, peace and prayer in Castlehaven.

This area has had many significant losses to the sea in the fishing industry, many have died in truly tragic circumstances, so it seems fitting at this well to pray for the safety of those at sea by this well surrounded by nets and floats.

O God, who brought the children of Israel through the Red Sea and carried them safely through the deep as the sang praises to you, guard all your servants who make their living on the sea, and having repelled all dangers, bring them to the desired port after a calm voyage; through our Lord, Jesus Christ, who lives and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit, world without end. 

Amen.

How to find it:

From Catletownsend, take the L4218 and turn left after about a mile at the signpost for Catlehaven Castle. Travel down this road to Caslehaven until you reach the bay. Go through the church grounds (now a ruin) and enter the gate, crossing the stream and following the path up through the glen. The well is a short walk up the other side after crossing the wooden bridge

Saint Lachtain’s Holy Well, Freshford

A zoomorphic image in the arch of St Lachtain's church

In the picturesque little village of Freshford in County Kilkenny lies a deep holy well dedicated to Saint Lachtain. The village is settled on a small park square with the remnants of an Irish high cross, but sadly all that is to be seen is a lump of worn stone. A little way down from the village square is the church of Saint Lachtain, built in 1731 and incorporating an ancient doorway portal from 1110. Although the actual church building is of a relatively late date, the site is of great historical significance in Ireland as a site of almost continuous use since its early foundation.

 The ancient archway of St Lachtain's church

The original foundation at Freshford was settled some time in the seventh century before the death of Saint Lachtain in 672AD (some annals record the earlier date of 622AD, but this may be a confusion with the date of the foundation of the first church at Freshford) and very early historical records make many references to the existence of the site. It is mentioned later in various Annals dating from the twelfth and thirteenth century, where an attempt is clearly being made to have the site recognized as the Episcopal centre of the newly established diocese of Ossory. The mission met with failure with the site being recognized only a part of the temporalities of the See of Ossory in 1218. However, Bishop Hugh Mapleton held it in high esteem and built his Episcopal palace close by called Uppercourt. Uppercourt was to remain the favoured residence of the Bishop’s of Ossory until the 1550’s when Bishop John Bale was resident. This Bishop had a voracious reforming zeal which enraged the local population and in a single night they murdered five of his servants, forcing him to flee for his life. Since then, the building of Uppercourt has been in secular ownership.

The village of Freshford

Today the church of Saint Lachtain is still in regular use and the nave of the church is thought to be built on the same foundation outline as the tenth century cell church (the second church to built on the site) which was built to house the relic of Saint Lachtain’s arm; a magnificent silver and gold reliquary which housed the saints forearm bones and which can be seen in the National Museum in Dublin. It’s nothing short of a miracle that the relic survived at all as the site was plundered numerous times by the Vikings and casual robbers, who repeatedly burned its books and plundered its silver and gold. The Franciscan’s moved the reliquary to County Kerry in the mid 1600’s where it was to stay for some time before being transferred into the care of the Museum in Dublin. The doorway to the church is the oldest surviving part of it, dating to 1110 and incorporating some zoomorphic figures, a rider on horseback and two ecclesiastical figures (both unidentified). The arch carries a prayer inscribed in Irish script: Pray for Niamh, daughter of Corc, and for Mathgamhan O Clearmaic for whom this church was made. Pray for Gille Mocholmoc for whom this church was made. Pray for Gille Mocholmoc O Ceannucain who made it.

Two ecclesiastical figures in the arch

Saint Lachtain’s day is celebrated on 19^th March. A native of Muskerry in County Cork and born into an illustrious family, Saint Lachtain’s arrival was shrouded in mystery in a vision given to Saint Molua while under the oversight of Saint Comgall of Bangor. It was said that Saint Molua was so disturbed by this vision, and in fear that it he had fantasised the whole thing himself, he never broke a smile until he heard of the child’s birth! Lachtains genealogy is confused, but it is generally regarded that he was of royal lineage. The earliest life of the saint (which only records his early years) is now lost, but various writers such as Colgan records a story from it regarding how the child in the womb appeared in a vision to a blind man by the name of Mohemeth to give him his sight. Other stories relating to Lachtain’s childhood portray him in the same vein as Jacob, Jeremiah and John the Baptist, sanctified before their birth - a common device used in early Irish Saint’s Life’s. Other miracles from his childhood relate how he healed himself of food poisoning, how he healed his mother of a terminal tumor and how he saved the cattle of the area from a terrible plague.

The shrine reliquary of Saint Lachtain's arm

In later Life accounts of the saint we are told how he journeyed northward and went to study under the direction of Saint Comgall in Bangor, who placed him in the care of Saint Molua as his guardian and teacher. He remained here until the age of thirty, studying diligently and being highly proficient in his knowledge of the scriptures. After this period in Bangor, Lachtain set out to establish a number of religious foundations both in County Kilkenny and in County Cork.

 The much neglected holy well

The saint’s holy well is a short walk from the ecclesiastical site, set off slightly from the main road into the village. O’Hanlon records it as being in great disrepair and utterly neglected by the local people, but the same well is mentioned in the ancient Life of Saint Mochoemoc (an Abbott in the time of Saint Lachtain’s later years and patron saint of LIsmore) as being a place ‘sacred to the memory of Saint Lachtain’. Saint Lachtain died on the 19^th March in 672AD and within a very short period of his death he was being venerated as a saint, recorded in the martyrology of AEngus of Culdee, the Martyrology of Tallaght, of Marianus O’Gorman, of Maguire, O’Clery’s, in the Calendar of Cashel, and more curiously the saint appears in the sanctorale of the Carthusian Order throughout Europe on the same date. There are a number of Holy Wells dedicated to Saint Lachtain throughout Ireland and all of them hold in common a belief that they cure paralytics and those ‘possessed by a diabolical agency’. The waters in the holy well at Freshford are considered beneficial for the blessing of cattle; possibly relating to an account in one of the Life’s which tells of the Saint’s gift of cattle to the people and of his love of dairy food. Saint Lachtain was also highly regarded as a broker of peace between warring factions and tribal scuffles, and was said to have been a keen defender of the interests of the people of Munster. In later martyrologies he is recorded as being a Bishop, but despite the record, it is a claim that is difficult to ascertain in truth. Overall, Lachtain’s life is one that tells of supreme sacrifice, leaving behind his royal rights to enter a life of self-giving and risking his life in peacemaking for the people he loved. A healer, a teacher and a man of prayer who travelled by faith the length and breath of Ireland, Saint Lachtain’s memory is firmly fixed in Freshford; a sleepy, peaceful little village in County Kilkenny.

The modern, small cross at the well

At some point the holy well at Freshford has gone through very significant alteration, with a boundary wall now built to separate it from the surrounding farmer’s fields, and an iron gate encompassing a cross erected at its entrance. A Conservation Plan from 2004, typically makes no mention of the well at all. The holy well itself is very deep, but badly neglected. Its culverts have become blocked, so the water fills up over the top of the circular well housing and because of the lack of flow, much green algae has grown on the surface of the water. The rest of the well housing is in good condition, with a tiny stone cross in one corner. It is a simple layout and easy to make rounds, but the waters are far from inviting! Despite being on a main road into the village, it is a peaceful place with its own peculiar charm and sleepy nature. A much overlooked site that’s well worth the visit.

The iron gate at the entrance to the well

Lachtain, the Champion, loved

Humility, perfect and pure,

Stand through perpetual time

Did he in defence of the men of Munster.

Cumineus of Connor.

O thou who art heroic love, keep alive in our hearts that adventurous spirit which makes men scorn the way of safety, so that thy will be done. For so only, O Lord, shall we be worthy of those courageous souls who in every age have ventured all in obedience to thy call, and for whom the trumpets have sounded on the other side; through Jesus Christ our Lord. 

Amen.

John H. Oldham

The stump of the high cross

How to find it:

From Kilkenny heading out to the village of Freshford, the holy well is located around 200 metres before the village on the right hand side of the road. As you enter the village, the church is located down a road to the right off the main village green.

A cross inscribed in the doorway of the church

Two Wells at Lough Ine, County Cork.

Our Lady of the Fuchsia!

Lough Ine (or Hyne) is a marine lake in West Cork around five kilometers from the town of Skibereen. Being rather shallow and yet highly oxygenated it sustains an unusually high level of plant and animal life, many of which are not found anywhere else in Ireland. It is a beautiful and a bit of trap for tourists and Sunday afternoon drivers. If the sun is shining be prepared to meet a minor traffic jam!

Lough Ine (Hyne)

Above the lake is a steep hill (Knockomagh Hill) with paths winding around the bottom and all the way to the top. If you attempt the climb to the top of the hill, even though it isn’t a particularly large hill, the climb is nonetheless somewhat strenuous, but worth the views when you reach the top.  From this vantage point you can get a glimpse of both the ruins of the castle on Castle Island (once associated with the O’Driscoll clan) in the centre of the lake and the ruins of Saint Brigid’s church on the opposite shore.

Tobarín Súl

The two holy wells in the area are known as Skour Well and Tobarín Súl. Saint Brigid’s well is also beside the church ruins of the same dedication and Saint Brigid is said to have spent some time in the area. Legend has it that when she knelt to pray at a rock near the holy well, she left the impressions of her knees! Following the path around the base of the hill you will cross a small trickle of a stream and land on a path that begins a slow climb uphill. On the right the first well that you will see is the Eye well, or Tobarín Súl. This well is renowned throughout the area as being a very powerful well to heal any complaints regarding eyesight or the eyes. Many offerings of various kinds have been left by the well which is surrounded by a mound of stones and various trinkets and offerings. A three trunked tree grows up out of the back of the well and stands like a sentry. I couldn’t help but recall the moment in the Gospel when Jesus begins to heal a blind man who says he can see people like walking trees, and after Jesus lays hands on him a second time he can see perfectly. Of this holy well’s past history I was unable to find anything out.

Tokens left at the holy well

The next well is known as Skour well and is located just a short stretch up the hill. It appears that this well’s dedication has either been forgotten or it has never had a dedication. The word Skour probably comes from the Irish ‘sceabhar’ meaning ‘slope’ or ‘slant’, indicating its position on the side of the hill. In the past, on May eve, pilgrims would come and make traditional rounds at the well and drop a white stone. Today the well is surrounded by these white stones, but the May eve pattern is a mass said by the local priest and the well appears today to be thoroughly dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Crude ‘icons’ of Our Lady litter the site and the traditional hawthorn bush above the well holds the rags of passing pilgrims. A large stone structure surrounds the well, much of which looks thoroughly modern.

Skour Well

In many ways this well is in grave danger of being over-worked. Many wells throughout Ireland have disappeared precisely because people have messed with the natural flow of watercourses and built large, heavy structures around the wells. In some cases they have planted numerous trees and the well has simply dried up. In this case, the well has almost been swallowed up by the stone surround and the stones placed so carefully and neatly around the base of the well. Despite this, there is something rather appealing about this well which I think, for me, lies in the many white stones brought by groups of pilgrims in the past and the naive 'icons'.

The well surround

Lord, high and holy, meek and lowly, Thou hast brought me to the valley of vision, where I live in the depths but see Thee in the heights; hemmed in by mountains of in I behold Thy glory. Let me learn by paradox that the way down is the way up, that to be low is to be high, that the broken heart is the healed heart, that the contrite spirit is the rejoicing spirit, that the repenting soul is the victorious soul, that to have nothing is to possess all, that to bear the cross is to wear the crown, that to give is to receive, that the valley is the place of vision. Lord, in the daytime stars can be seen from deepest wells, and the deeper the wells the brighter Thy stars shine; let me find Thy light in my darkness, Thy life in my death, Thy joy in my sorrow, Thy grace in my sin, Thy riches in my poverty, Thy glory in my valley, Thy water in my well.

Amen.

Charles Spurgeon

A Child of Prague at the Eye well

How to find it:

From Lough Ine, take the path into the woods at the foot of Knockomagh Hill. Follow the path around the foot of the hill, crossing a small stream. The path then veers up to the left and up a slight slope. On the left are the two wells; firstly Tobarín Súl and then a little farther up is Skour well.

A Madonna and Child at the Skour Well