The Black Abbey, Kilkenny
Sometimes you
come across a holy well that has either little or no information about it at
all except in the memory of those who live nearby. Angel’s well is one such
example, but after a long search and quite a few questions, in early July of
2012 I finally found an answer from a quiet monk in the Black Abbey in Kilkenny
city.
The Abbey garden
The Black Abbey
is a curious place with a name that conjures mystery and a certain solidity.
It’s hidden behind houses, down a little back road and surrounded by the
typical Medieval meandering and narrow streets that one associates with
Medieval towns and cities like Kilkenny. It was originally built through the
generosity of William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, in 1225. It’s original
structure was of a simple and plain stone abbey in a standard abbey shape, but
a tower was added in 1507. The interior aspect has changed, with the tower
rising above what is now the sanctuary which would originally have been the long
choir. The south aisle (which runs adjacent to the nave) is the entrance and
the now shortened choir is now the sanctuary. It’s an odd orientation that
doesn’t quite work and sadly it’s interior feels a little out of sorts and
somewhat patchy, with furnishings that are modern and simple and yet for some
reason still don’t quite fit. It’s not at all helped by the sanctuary sporting
a modern stained glass window which I didn’t find particular beautiful and is
far too dominant a force in the building. The Black Abbey has clearly suffered
much, not least during the dissolution of the monasteries during the reign of
Henry VIII when the abbey was closed for period and used as a court house. In
1603 however, the citizens of Kilkenny staged a minor coup, and seized the
abbey to return it to the Dominican Order. The future looked bright, but then
Oliver Cromwell came along with his forces and did what he was best at in
Ireland - he sacked it and tore
down the nave. The rest of the church suffered in this sacking too and the
abbey was finally completely restored (minus its original sanctuary) in 1860.
The carving of the Holy Trinity
There are some
reasonable examples of Victorian stained glass in the abbey still, with a large
impressive Rosary Window (supposedly the largest stained glass window in Ireland)
adorning what was the south transept (the north transept seems to have
disappeared without trace; if there ever was one). Beside this sits an oddly
un-orthodox carving of the Holy Trinity (the dedication of the abbey) in the
sense that it has a figural depiction of God the Father complete with a beard
in the style of an Irish chieftain! Although the carving is dated to 1264 at
its base, various experts in the field have dated the carving to the later
fourteenth century. Whatever the case it is remarkably well preserved for it’s
age.
A medieval narrow street in Kilkenny
The outside of
the Black Abbey is directly on a road, but in the immediate vicinity of the
abbey walls you can see ten stone coffins lined up dating from the thirteenth
century. Across the street - where part of the long choir and the
sanctuary would have been - is a small railed off garden with the holy well in
the top right hand corner. The Dominican Order settled initially in Dublin with
Kilkenny being the third site of settlement. The abbey was so named due to
their style of habit, with a black cloak or cappa worn over their cowls.
Founded by Saint Dominic, they were established as an order of preachers, but
quickly acquired the nickname of Dominicans; a play on words for Domini Canes,
or ‘God’s dogs’ whose primary function was to rid the Christian west of the
gnostic sects. As an order it has struggled to achieve it’s goals, having very
limited success in combating the gnostic Albigensian heresies and consistently
doing battle with paganism until a new battle line was drawn with humanism
during the Renaissance. The order was most effective during the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries in that period of western expansion and colonialism when
the Domnicans became galvanised in their teaching on human rights when they
witnessed the brutal treatment dished out by colonialists to native peoples. Despite
preaching and advocating a Gospel of equality for all people – a message deeply
unpopular and resented by many at the time – the order experienced a revival by
the end of the nineteenth century, which was probably fortuitous in the restoration
of the Black Abbey in Kilkenny.
The dedication stone above the well
The original
foundation had no water source and the monks had to travel up the hill out of
the confines of the abbey to fetch water from Saint Canice’s well (called
‘Kenny’s well’ by locals). When an outbreak of bubonic plague hit the city of
Kilkenny the monks knew that travelling backwards and forwards to the well each
day was becoming a dangerous activity as many of the sick and infected were now
permanently camped out around the holy well in hope of a cure. To avoid the
spread of infection to the members of the abbey the Dominicans requested that a
small channel be built from Saint Canice’s well to a deep trough in the grounds
of the abbey to allow the monks to draw water without having to leave the
abbey. The Bishop was said to have been greatly concerned at the effect this
might have upon the level of water in Saint Canice’s well and did not want all
the water to be drained to the abbey, especially in light of the many sick and
infected who were gathering at the well to pray for a cure. Legend has it he
finally relented to the request of the Dominicans by telling them they could
build their channel so long as it was no larger than the circumference of his
ring. The channel was built and the well housing made over the trough. Today the
water from Saint Canice’s well still flows through this very narrow channel
without any detrimental effect upon Saint Canice’s well up the hill. Over time
popular devotion around the redirected well grew and it began to be treated as
a separate holy well and even began to be called Angel’s Well; although nobody
is quite sure why it was given this name. William Grace, the mayor of Kilkenny,
erected a new well housing around it in 1885.
Angel's well
It’s not easy to
get in close to this well as the garden area is often locked, although it is
clearly taken care of very well. The well on the other hand is slightly
neglected, with much silt and a few bits of rubbish. It’s a curious thing for a
well to gather its own forgotten history, but the mystery of why it is called
Angel’s Well will no doubt remain lost in the mists of history, but even if you
can’t get in to visit this well you can always go up the hill to the source of
the water in it!
Grant O Lord
Jesus Christ, that I may persevere in good purposes, and in thy holy service,
to my death; and that I may this day perfectly begin, for all I have hitherto
done is nothing.
Amen.
A prayer from the
Dublin Dominican Manual, 1913.
Kilkenny city
How to find it:
The Black Abbey
is now clearly signposted and sits on the corner of Abbey Street. The small
railed garden is opposite and the well is in the top corner by the street.